Going Out

Norwich: Bishop's

Bishop's Wine Bar is a relatively new restaurant which could become a jewel in the crown of Norwich eateries. SARAH BREALEY paid a visit. A restaurant opened by a jeweller sounds a slightly unlikely.

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The link between jewellery and food is not obvious. No-one has ever been nourished by diamonds or rubies. When King Midas was granted his wish, he was horrified to find that he could no longer eat as the food he touched became inedible gold. Particularly fancy confectioners have been known to use gold leaf to decorate their chocolates or cakes, though its benefits are strictly for the eye - the gold, being inert metal, simply passes through the system without providing any nutrients along the way.

But Bishop's was founded by jeweller Robert Croydon, owner of Winsor Bishop. Until last year it was Fizzbuzz.com, a restaurant with pleasing food if a quite bonkers name. And Bishop's is a sparkling kind of place, with crystal light fittings, elegant white chairs and a slightly self-absorbed painting of a couple sitting inside the very restaurant. I guess there must be some crossover between the clientele and the kind of people who pop in for a gold bracelet from Winsor Bishop, for this is not Norwich's most expensive restaurant but very far from its cheapest. Two courses are £25, or £28 for three. For this price you expect quality. And luckily, Bishops delivers this.

The meal was bookended with the merely fine, but everything in between was excellent. The merely fine was the bread, a granary roll and a white roll flavoured with rosemary, which were improved by being served warm but were nothing out of the ordinary. And the cheese sounded like an interesting selection - Binham blue, Lincolnshire poacher, brie and tournegus, but only the Binham blue was really top quality. I had been hoping for a powerful Brie de Meaux, but the brie was mild and creamy, like the stuff you buy in a supermarket, though at least it was not too cold.

There was plenty that was excellent, though. Pigeon breast, served with braised gem lettuce, was tender but well-flavoured. Pea and mint soup is a bit of a Ford Fiesta kind of dish - cheap, not exactly glamorous - but here it had been given the Rolls Royce treatment, frothed up with cream and drizzled with truffle oil. It was delicious.

Main courses were just a touch better, if only because the more complex dishes meant that there was more to show off. Lamb rump came prettily sliced, still pink, on a bed of insanely tasty white beans, with a few florets of perky broccoli. There was also a dolls-house-style ratatouille, each piece of vegetable chopped tiny, which sang with Mediterranean flavours. The other main course, goats' cheese and courgette tart was also a joy to eat, with caramelised onions and roast tomatoes also adding their flavours to the puff pastry. It was served on a neat row of French beans, with sliced new potatoes and tiny chanterelle mushrooms, and a tomato concasse (that's chopped tomatoes with some other flavourings) in a ring around the plate.

As well as the slightly disappointing cheese, we finished with a chocolate fondant that reminded me why this is one of my favourite desserts. It was dark and rich, and the warm liquid centre oozed out as we dug our spoons in. The white chocolate mousse that came with it was a sweet, creamy contrast.

The wine list started at £16.75 for a bottle of quite reasonable Shiraz Merlot, and goes steadily upwards to above £100 if you want to splash out - I have a feeling there may have been a £300 wine, though to be honest I was not really looking at that end of the wine list with any seriousness.

We were served by a helpful young woman who was quite the poshest waitress I have encountered. Service was excellent, and our jug of tap water was discreetly refilled without asking.

For these prices it would be nice to see one or two little gestures, like fancier bread, or perhaps a couple of chocolates with the bill. If you don't want to splash out the lunchtime menu is a considerably cheaper. Either way, with its excellent food and elegant setting, Bishop's is a worthy place for a special occasion - or maybe just to show off your latest piece of jewellery.

Bishop's, 8-10 St Andrew's Hill, Norwich, 01603 767321, www.bishopsrestaurant.co.uk

Open: Tues-Sat 12-4pm and 6-11pm

Prices: Lunch £10 for a main course, £15 for two courses and £19 for three. Main menu £24.95 for two courses and £27.95 for three.

Wheelchair access: Limited.

RATINGS

Food: *****

Service: ****

Atmosphere: ****

Family: ***